Exploring History in Berlin
Berlin, Germany’s capital and largest city, is a brilliant choice for a city break for anyone interested in history, especially twentieth century history. A few days in the city will provide the opportunity to explore both the third Reich and Cold War periods, as well as appreciate the longer history of Prussia and subsequently Germany. It’s not the most scenic of cities, but nowhere else has the depth of historical sights to visit if interested in modern European history.
Here are eleven must-see historical sights when you visit Berlin.
Reichstag
The reconstructed Reichstag which houses Germany’s legislature is a great place to start your historical exploration. The building is a great juxtaposition of old and new, as it includes the old facade with a brand new building inside it, topped by an impressive glass dome. A guided tour is interesting as you will learn about the building and its art works, and see the parliamentary chamber and other parts of the building, including some graffiti left from the Russians in 1945. The highlight of your visit, however, is likely to be exploring the glass dome on the roof. There is a helpful audio guide which points out things to see on the skyline, as well as providing information about the building itself.
German Historical Museum
The Deutsches Historisches Museum (or German Historical Museum) is a brilliant museum which enables you to get an overview of the history of Germany, and by implication the history of the European continent. Allow a full morning to stroll through the permanent collection which will transport you through Germany through the ages – from the Romans to the Nazis and beyond. All of the exhibits and information are explained in English and there is just so much to see here that will help you to place the rest of your visit in context.
Topography of Terror
The rather strangely-named Topography of Terror is a fascinating portrayal of the Nazi rise to, and misuse of, power. An indoors exhibit is largely composed of photographs, all briefly explained in English, which each tell a story. Whether it’s one of a crowd cheering and reaching for Hitler as if he was a rock star; to another crowd in Nazi salute with a single man with crossed arms; to the dozens of photos of Nazi leaders and the story of how so many escaped justice. Then you can step outside and find more photos in the trench exhibit alongside a section of the Berlin Wall. All of this built on top of the old Gestapo HQ which was destroyed after the war. It’s a fascinating place.
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
The Kaiser-Wilhelm Memorial Church was destroyed in the second world war, and now only a tower remains. Inside it, there are a range of interesting exhibits, including a poignant cross of nails from Coventry in England, another city destroyed in the blitz. You also have the chance to visit the modern church next door, which in stark contrast is filled with blue light and a suspended, golden Christ figure.
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial
Think carefully before making a visit here. The history is fascinating but it’s not an easy experience as a visit here will be emotionally draining.
The Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial, is located just north of Berlin. It can be reached via the S1 train to Orianenburg, which takes about an hour, and then a 25 minute walk to the camp. At the camp, make sure to hire an audio guide to explain what you’re seeing. There is much to learn. You will find some barracks are still in place and have exhibits about life in the camp for the prisoners. It was a work camp, rather than a purely extermination camp, like Auschwitz, but it was no less inhumane for that. Beyond the horrors of the holocaust, the camp is also interesting for its history after 1945 as it was taken over by the Soviets, who unbelievably chose to merely replace the prisoners with Germans and keep the camp open.
Holocaust memorial
For a sombre reminder of the devastation of the Holocaust, pay a visit to the Holocaust Memorial. It’s a huge, modern concrete slab installation, with an underground documentation centre which is just as moving as might be expected. The documentation centre is really well done, with a focus on the individual tragedies amidst the large scale horror. When you emerge above ground again, don’t be surprised if the art installation appears more foreboding.
Berlin Wall Memorial
You will see sections of the Berlin Wall all over Berlin (including at the Topography of Terror and the Eastside Gallery) but it’s worth a visit to the Berlin Wall Memorial. This is spread over quite a large site and includes small sections of wall preserved and complete with a watch tower. There is also a documentation centre, with a viewing platform, and various memorials. You will learn some of the personal stories about families separated, or evicted, because of this arbitrary line splintering their city in two. I was also surprised to learn how many people died trying to cross the wall (or suspected of doing so), including as late as 1989 – the year the wall finally comes down
Museum island
If you’re interested in a taste of history older than the twentieth century, it’s worth spending a day on Berlin’s fantastic Museum Island, which houses six museums. Highlights include the Pergamon with awe-inspiring, huge artefacts from Ancient Greece, Rome and the East; the Bode museum with lovely sculptures, and the Neues with its impressive Egyptian collection, including the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti. You can purchase a museum island day pass to gain entry to all of the museums.
Berliner Dom
The Berliner Dom (or Berlin Cathedral) is also located on Museum Island and is well worth a visit. It has a long history dating from the 15th century but the current building was completed in 1905. Both exterior and interior are an impressive sight. Inside, you can climb the dome for some wonderful views, including over the Lustgarten park.
Boros Bunker
For a unusual evening, combining history and art, consider a guided tour of the Boros Collection in the Bunker. This is a world war two air raid bunker, now owned by private art collectors who exhibit their contemporary pieces in this highly unusual setting. The tour includes some history of the building, which has been variously an air raid shelter, a prisoner of war prison, and a venue for raves, before it became an art gallery. The contemporary art is quite bizarre and challenging, but in combination with the building and its history, it’s a great way to spend an evening in Berlin.
East Side Gallery
The East Side Gallery consists of a series of murals painted directly onto part of the Berlin Wall. There are 105 paintings in the open-air gallery, including the depiction of Brezhnev and Honecker kissing. It’s worth a stroll one evening.
When I visited Berlin, I stayed at the Hotel Casa Camper near Alexanderplatz and would recommend it due to modern rooms, a good location and the convenience of free breakfast, and 24 hour snacks and drinks.
